Everything people ask before they book

Acid etching only cleans the very top skin of the concrete and leaves behind a weak, powdery layer. Coatings stick to that layer, and then the layer lets go of the slab. Diamond grinding removes it entirely and opens the pores so the base coat locks into solid concrete. It's the difference between a floor that lasts 15 years and one that peels in 2.

Yes, every one. Colorado slabs, especially newer pours and anything below grade, can push enough water vapor to lift a coating from underneath. A moisture test takes us a few minutes and tells us whether you need a moisture-mitigating primer. We'd rather find out before we coat than have you find out after.

Hairline cracks are chased open, vacuumed and filled with a flexible polyurea filler, then ground flush. That's included. Wider cracks, heaved joints and large spalls are repaired the same way but priced by the foot. Control joints (the straight saw-cut lines) are usually filled so the floor is continuous, unless you'd rather keep them visible.

Our grinder and hand tools run on HEPA-filtered vacuums, and we cover doors into the house. Grinding concrete makes fine dust, and we take that seriously. You'll see some haze on shelves near the floor, but your garage won't look like a construction site.

Not over it, no. We grind it off. Coating over an old coating means your new floor is only as good as whatever's underneath, and old epoxy or paint is usually already letting go somewhere. Removal takes more grinder time, and it's priced into your quote.

Yes. They're common in newer builds and shop garages. A heated slab changes three things. First, we ask you to turn the floor heat off 48 hours before install so the slab is at normal temperature for the coating to cure evenly. Second, we keep all crack repair shallow and never drill into the slab, so the tubing is never at risk. Third, after the floor cures you bring the heat back up gradually over two or three days. Polyaspartic handles radiant floor temperatures with no problem, and a heated garage is a great place to install in winter. Tell us about the radiant system when you request a quote; the extra coordination is a small line item.

For most 1-, 2- and 3-car garages, yes. We arrive in the morning, grind and repair, apply base coat and flake, scrape, and topcoat, and we're usually gone by late afternoon. Heavy coating removal or a large shop floor can push to a second day, and we'll tell you that at the quote.

Walk on it the next morning. Move light items back in after 24 hours. For vehicles, we give you the exact day before we leave. Avoid turning the wheel while stationary for the first week or so while the coating reaches full hardness.

Empty the garage as much as you can. Anything on the floor has to move, including shelves and freezers, so the whole slab gets coated. If moving something is a problem, tell us at the quote and we'll figure it out. Cars should be out the night before. If your slab has radiant heat, turn it off 48 hours before we arrive.

Yes. Polyaspartic cures in cold temperatures, well below what epoxy tolerates, so we install year-round along the Front Range. We do watch for snow days since the slab needs to be dry.

It changes with the season. Spring and fall fill up fastest. Send a quote request and we'll give you a real date, not a guess.

Coatings peel for three reasons: bad prep (acid etch or none), moisture from below, and thin or cheap material. We grind, we test, and we use a commercial-grade polyurea/polyaspartic system. Prep failure isn't something we gamble on.

No. Polyaspartic is UV stable. That's one of the main reasons we use it over epoxy, which ambers quickly near a garage door that gets afternoon sun.

A full-flake floor has a light texture from the chips, so it's grippier than sealed concrete when dry. Wet, it's comparable to a tile floor. If you want more bite (patios, snow country, a shop where you're on your feet all day) we add an anti-slip grit to the topcoat.

Sweep or blow it out, then mop with water and a little dish soap or a pH-neutral cleaner. Hose it out if you like. Avoid citrus and solvent degreasers on a regular basis. Oil, brake fluid and mag chloride wipe up; they won't stain the coating.

Yes. Rolling jacks, jack stands and lifts are fine. Put a small pad under motorcycle kickstands and under anything with a sharp point, which is good practice on any floor.

Typical ranges: 1-car $1,800–2,600, 2-car $2,800–4,200, 3-car $4,000–5,800. Basements, patios, shops and commercial floors are quoted per square foot. Every job is quoted in person after a moisture test and a look at the slab, and the quote is the price.

Slab condition. A smooth, clean slab with a couple of hairline cracks is at the low end. A pitted floor with an old peeling coating, wide cracks and a high moisture reading needs more grinding, more filler and a primer, and lands at the high end.

Free, no obligation. The owner comes out, measures, tests moisture and walks the slab with you. It takes about 20 minutes, and it helps if you're there so we can talk through flake colors and any add-ons.

The owner who quoted it, with a helper on the bigger floors. We don't sub out labor or run multiple crews. The person who promised you the floor is the person standing on it.